The Tuscan Osteria-Mercato

When I called the Tuscan a few weeks after its grand opening to make a reservation for two on Friday night, I was told we wouldn’t be able to get a table until 9:30. I made my call almost a week in advance, so I figured this place must be pretty good. My date and I got to the restaurant a little early and were able to slip in ahead of the crowd that arrived just after us to check things out.

The Tuscan is an upscale casual eatery that serves Italian food in a relaxed but stylish atmosphere on Main Street in New Canaan. With all the other places to eat in town, locals are choosing the Tuscan for its fresh ingredients, homemade pastas, accessible wine list and happening atmosphere. The attached market is a big draw, too. This space is a great idea, especially since diners can bring home many of the ingredients that co-owner and Executive Chef Marc Minella uses in the restaurant’s dishes.

There’s a good selection of Italian grocery staples in the market, too, from imported Tuscan Laudemio olive oils to Setaro and Lensi brand pastas. The Tuscan’s own fresh-made pasta is available here as well, along with cheeses and a full butcher’s shop of meats with offerings from quail to wild boar. It’s run by co-owner and Master Butcher James Dadio, who’s been in the business for twenty-nine years.

Once we’d perused the market’s offerings, we made our way back to the restaurant. Exposed brick walls give the dining room a rustic feel, and the dark wood and low lighting make it warm and cozy. Our fellow diners were stylish fifty-something couples on double dates and groups of thirty-somethings meeting for drinks and dinner. The noise level was humming, and a few times servers had to squeeze behind my chair to get to another table (there are about twenty-five total), but if you like a little activity, you’ll enjoy the atmosphere. The layout of the place, with the market in front and restaurant in back, threw me a little bit, especially since I could see into the market from where I was sitting. It took some romance out of the meal, but there are plenty of tables without that view.

Tuscan
Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with spinach, white asparagus and salmon roe.

Our server knew the menu well and was able to make recommendations. The wine list looked great, too. “We tried to create a younger, very approachable list,” says General Manager Marco Degl’Innocenti. “The wines all pair well with our dishes and they are all very easy to drink.”

In addition to changing the menu at least three times a week, “we use the freshest seasonal ingredients to prepare our food,” says Degl’Innocenti, and it’s obvious. The Mozzarella Condita appetizer—buffalo mozzarella with peppers and balsamic vinegar—was fresh and beautifully presented. We told our waitress we’d be splitting the appetizer and pasta courses, and they arrived divided into equal portions on two plates, each styled with all the flourishes of the full-size dish, a touch I appreciated.

The Tagliatelle Fatte in Casa al Sugo Antico was next, with house-made tagliatelle cooked perfectly al dente, and thick bolognese sauce with meat and vegetables. My date raved about the pasta in particular, which the Tuscan makes fresh every day, and I’ll admit that after this dish, it’s been tough to go back to the stuff from the box.

I highly recommend the scallops as an entrée. Mine were perfectly pan-seared and served with fingerling potatoes and mushrooms in a light sauce. The filet mignon was prepared perfectly to taste but came without sauce or much seasoning. We asked for some sauce and got Tuscan’s own recipe, which did the job but seemed less gourmet than everything else the restaurant offers.

For dessert, I always get whatever is chocolate, in this case the Budino di Cioccolata con Gelato al Latte, a chocolate lava cake with creamy milk gelato on the side. It fit the bill. The cake had a slightly nutty flavor, and with a cup of coffee, it was the perfect ending to a great Italian meal.

There’s also a full bar in the back of the restaurant (“an option that was lacking in New Canaan,” says Degl’Innocenti); it’s separated from the dining room by a stained-glass divider. A bar menu with smaller items is available, but the full menu is also served there.

The Tuscan is a great place for a low-key dinner, Sunday brunch or late afternoon meal, and it’s a good local resource for Italian specialty ingredients. The prices are a little steep, but the food is good, and I enjoyed my meal—as well as a Bolognese sauce I brought home from the market. “The Tuscan is a smart, casual restaurant and bar,” says Degl’Innocenti. “The idea is to provide a one-stop venue for top-class Italian fare.” From the precise preparation to the fresh ingredients and great service, I’d say they got the idea.

The Tuscan Osteria-Mercato
136 Main St., New Canaan, 203-594-9026

Fast Facts

Best Table: Number 60, which seats three to four people in an alcove
Best Nights: Tuesday for a quiet dinner, Friday and Saturday for crowd-lovers
Dress Code: Smart casual
Signature Dishes: Fresh pastas made on the premises with flour from Italy; steaks, which are prime dry-aged in house
Chef’s Choice: Coccoli, a traditional Tuscan antipasto item—fried dough balls with mozzarella and prosciutto
Thumbs Up: Tuscan supports local farmers and farmers’ markets by buying meats and ingredients in Connecticut
Hours: Lunch, Tues–Sun., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Tues.–Thurs., 5:30–9:00 p.m., Fri.–Sat. until 10:00 p.m.; Market, 9:30–6:00 p.m

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