The flavors and flair of Greece come to Stamford
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Along with the octopus we order a handsome sampling of three dips: fiery feta cheese, tzatziki and roasted eggplant. Served with a basket of perfectly fresh and warm pita quarters, whole wheat and white, the dips (especially the blazing feta) are incontrovertible proof that the kitchen of Eos knows how to do things right. At tables all around us, blue flames leapt from plates. Waiters were setting matches to orders of saganaki, a slab of cheese that is seasoned and doused with brandy before going up in flames. Tableside pyrotechnics never fail to amuse, and Eos’s rendition of this classic hors d’oeuvre is perfect.
By its nature, Greek cuisine is very adaptable. You can come to Eos for nothing but appetizers, a soup and a salad, or you can have only an entrée, with maybe an appetizer as a side dish. It is all very modular; there is no right or wrong way to approach the menu. We adore the Gigantes — huge butter beans baked with fresh herbs and slathered with olive oil and tomato sauce — so meaty they almost could pass as an entreé. An Eos fan we know swears by the souvlaki sticks made of pork, lamb or beef. Most people get a stick or two as an appetizer, but who’s to say that this starter wouldn’t make a great main course if you ordered six of them? It is our belief that no cooks on earth make better roast chicken than Greeks, and while it is not a flamboyant dish, Eos’s chicken is indescribably satisfying. It is not half a bird, as is usual, but rather cutlets of breast meat char-grilled and seasoned with oregano and lemon. On the side come wedges of lemon potatoes, lusciously soft and tangy.