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Spring Bling

A showcase for art and antiques offers some exceptional jewelry — guided tour included.

Eric Raisina worn by Chanel Iman, Lars Andersson SS 2013


With all kinds of special occasions approaching—Mother’s Day, graduation, the very popular wedding month of June—jewelry is one gift sure to please moms, daughters, and brides. The annual Spring Show at New York’s Park Avenue Armory, open to the public from May 2 through 5 and run by the Art and Antique Dealers League of America, is a great place to start your browsing.

Jewelry from centuries past, as well as unique baubles from the age of the Robber Barons through the 1980s, will be on view at many of the dozens of dealer booths, stocked with enticing finds from around the world.

If you don’t want to miss any of the fabulous vintage gems on offer, you might like to sign up for a guided tour through the show with a noted expert. Clive Kandel, Curator of Fine Jewelry and Consultant to 1st Dibs, the show’s sponsors, will lead visitors around the exhibit space, highlighting some of the dealers’ most extraordinary pieces. The tour, taking place at 3 p.m. on May 2, the show’s first day, is free to ticket holders.

Kandel was born in London and began collecting Cartier jewels when he was just 18 – building on his family’s rich history in the Amsterdam and London-based diamond trading business and leading to his own shop on Grafton Street, London in the 1970s.  

While working with Romain de Tirtoff in the design and creation of the Erté jewelry Collection, Kandel realized the importance of pre-war American costume jewelry. He is the principal of Reville & Rossiter, exhibiting in booth 407, and Magnificent Costume Jewels.

Since the birthstone for May is emerald, perhaps your favorite May baby would love this 122-carat emerald necklace from Yvel:

For the June girl, The Silver Fund is showing this piece from Ruser of Hollywood that combines her pearl birthstone with diamonds and platinum to create a breathtaking brooch:

Modern designs also abound, with sculptural qualities, or a fine arts provenance. My particular favorite is this Jazz cuff bracelet, designed by Eric Magnussen, in silver, from Drucker Antiques:

A suite of citrine jewelry, including a necklace with a very large gemstone worn by actress Joan Crawford in the movie “When Ladies Meet,” can be found in Pat Saling’s booth, along with the Edwardian ruby-and-diamond sautoir above. The latter piece is versatile as well as gorgeous, and may be worn as a choker, or as bracelets.

Beach wedding coming up? Perhaps the bride will appreciate the 18k ruby and diamond starfish brooch, made by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., and offered by New York dealer Botier.

Whatever the occasion and whatever your favorite woman’s taste, take her shopping at the Armory. In addition to the bracelets, earrings, necklaces, rings, and brooches, you will find beautiful antiques, American and European fine art, and delightful accessories throughout the show. Lectures and special exhibits will be offered throughout the show’s run. Proceeds for the opening night preview party from 5 to 9 p.m. on May 1 will benefit the ASPCA, so attending for an early peek will help our four-legged friends as well.

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